This is a racing frame with camera protection. It is my take on the floss type racing frame but meant to be a little more durable. It is a stretch x, with a 3mm bottom plate, 5mm arms, and 2mm plates everywhere else, and is designed to protect everything in hits with gates (nothing survives metal gates tho haha) it has the best camera protection in racing, and should be one of the best to protect electronics. Frame weighs 72g without the printed axii mount. This kit only comes with carbon, so all hardware and printed camera mounts will need to be sourced on your own.

The hardware it requires:

5x m3 20mm aluminum standoff

8x m3 12mm steel screws for arms (dont use aluminum unless you want to constantly replace them)

4x m3 locknuts

6x m3 6mm aluminum bolts for top plate and side plate

12x m3 8mm aluminum bolts for motors (most motors only come with 6mm screws which are too short for 5mm arms)

2x tpu printed camera mounts https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2892102

nylon standoffs

Optional:

printed tpu axii mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2892102

This is a 25mm stack height, so its a little tight, but fits everything used on most builds.

I designed it to allow for space to mount the typhoon 40amp 32bit esc from undergroundfpv.

components I used for my build:

rdq 2207 motors,

typhoon v2 40amp 6s 32bit 4in1 esc

helio spring fc

foxeer predator micro cam

mach2 vtx with ufl

ufl axii

xsr

capacitor

photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/jsySlVwO3RJhCq5w2

This frame is a new design that was build up around the battery placement, since it is the single heaviest object on a quad. The frame was designed around a standard 1300mah 4s battery, and keeps it as close to the center of the quad as possible to keep the moments of inertia (how easy it is to spin the quad) as low as possible. This and the symmetric X shape with minimal body, make this an extremely responsive quad. I also kept the weight of the frame down as much as possible using vertical plates and slots to keep the hardware count down, keeping the frame weighing in at about ~70g for the 4in version.

This kit is supports up to 4in props (195mm motor to motor), and meant to be used with batteries less than 40mm wide by less than 85 mm long (most 1300mah 4s batteries will work and you can put larger batteries on the bottom but it is not suggested).. Some filing will be necessary to get the slots all fitting together as I wanted to keep the tolerances as tight as possible since the slots are critical to this frame (See filing walk through here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Stpswks7JI). Also note that there is only 13mm of vertical height to build FC, Pdb stack so this is not really a beginner build, and pretty much everything will have to be direct soldered. It has the standard 30.5mm holes for FC stack, and has 16x19mm bolt pattern support for 220x motors (may have to drill out for 1806 motors). Also supports up to 55 degrees of camera tilt with a hs1177. Recommended build:

Naze32 or F3 or KISS FC

RCX2205 2350kv or 2633kv or any other 220x motor of your choice

little bee escs (or other f390 esc)

powerosd pro or RROSD Pro (no pins)

Aomway 200mw vtx

or hawkeye 200mw vtx or other Tiny vtx with about a 7cm right angle pigtail soldered on

HS1177 fpv cam

FrSky Xsr (not much room for anything else, I direct soldered mine) 

I am running a slightly earlier 6in version of this frame. It is a super compact build, but everything fits as long as you use the recommended build. I used a RROSD and would not attempt this without it if you want an osd in the build (Power OSD would work too). If you are nervous about getting everything crammed in I suggest going the route of the 16mm height instead of the 13mm. Mine is 13mm and it is very tight. 

 If you do build the frame please feel free to email me with any questions (and pics) at krwineinger@gmail.com

This is a Simple X frame that builds very similar to something like a shrike other than that there is no pdb (I suggest not using a pdb for this build but just make a harness and put it between the arm sandwitch). For build suggestions I suggest looking at Shrike or other similar frames build videos. This is a very light frame and will support either 5in props. I have not built this frame yet, but am testing a design with the same arms and bottom plates, and so far it is holding up well.

Suggested build:

220x motors

sp racing or other f3 Flight controler

hs1177 cam

little bees or other small 20A esc (xm20A for f390 chip)

micro vtx like amoway 200mw

pololu 5v stepdown

Battery on bottom

This frame is a new design that was build up around the battery placement, since it is the single heaviest object on a quad. The frame was designed around a standard 1300mah 4s battery, and keeps it as close to the center of the quad as possible to keep the moments of inertia (how easy it is to spin the quad) as low as possible. This and the symmetric X shape with minimal body, make this an extremely responsive quad. I also kept the weight of the frame down as much as possible using vertical plates and slots to keep the hardware count down, keeping the frame weighing in at about 92g for the 6in version, 87g for the 5in version.

(photo of 6in version)

This kit is supports up to 5in props (220mm motor to motor), and meant to be used with batteries less than 40mm wide by less than 85 mm long (most 1300mah 4s batteries will work and you can put larger batteries on the bottom but it is not suggested). Some filing will be necessary to get the slots all fitting together as I wanted to keep the tolerances as tight as possible since the slots are critical to this frame (See filing tutorial here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Stpswks7JI). Also note that there is only 16mm of vertical height to build FC, Pdb stack so this is not really a beginner build, and pretty much everything will have to be direct soldered. It has the standard 30.5mm holes for FC stack, and has 16x19mm bolt pattern support for 220x motors (may have to drill out for 1806 motors). Also supports up to 55 degrees of camera tilt with a hs1177. Recommended build:

Naze32 or F3 or KISS FC

RCX2205 2350kv or 2633kv or any other 220x motor of your choice

little bee escs (or other f390 esc)

powerosd pro or RROSD Pro (no pins)

Aomway 200mw vtx

or hawkeye 200mw vtx or other Tiny vtx with about a 7cm right angle pigtail soldered on

HS1177 fpv cam

FrSky Xsr (not much room for anything else, I direct soldered mine) 

I am running a slightly earlier version of this frame. It is a super compact build, but everything fits as long as you use the recommended build. I used a RROSD and would not attempt this without it if you want an osd in the build (Power OSD would work too). If you are nervous about getting everything crammed in I suggest going the route of the 16mm height instead of the 13mm. Mine is 13mm and it is very tight. 

 If you do build the frame please feel free to email me with any questions (and pics) at krwineinger@gmail.com

This is a Simple X frame that builds very similar to something like a shrike other than that there is no pdb (I suggest not using a pdb for this build but just make a harness and put it between the arm sandwitch). For build suggestions I suggest looking at Shrike build videos. This is a very light frame and will support either 5 or 6in props. I have not built this frame yet, but am testing a design with the same arms and bottom plates, and so far it is holding up well. The Viper LowRider 5in arms make this a 6in frame.

Suggested build:

220x motors

sp racing or other f3 Flight controler

hs1177 cam

little bees or other small 20A esc (xm20A for f390 chip)

micro vtx like amoway 200mw

pololu 5v stepdown

Battery on bottom

This frame is a new design that was build up around the battery placement, since it is the single heaviest object on a quad. The frame was designed around a standard 1300mah 4s battery, and keeps it as close to the center of the quad as possible to keep the moments of inertia (how easy it is to spin the quad) as low as possible. This and the symmetric X shape with minimal body, make this an extremely responsive quad. I also kept the weight of the frame down as much as possible using vertical plates and slots to keep the hardware count down, keeping the frame weighing in at about 92g for the 6in version.

This kit is supports up to 6in props, and meant to be used with batteries less than 40mm wide by less than 85 mm long (most 1300mah 4s batteries will work and you can put larger batteries on the bottom but it is not suggested).. Some filing will be necessary to get the slots all fitting together as I wanted to keep the tolerances as tight as possible since the slots are critical to this frame (see a filing tutorial here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Stpswks7JI). Also note that there is only 13mm of vertical height to build FC, Pdb stack so this is not really a beginner build, and pretty much everything will have to be direct soldered. It has the standard 30.5mm holes for FC stack, and has 16x19mm bolt pattern support for 220x motors (may have to drill out for 1806 motors). Also supports up to 55 degrees of camera tilt with a hs1177. Recommended build:

Naze32 or F3 or KISS FC

RCX2205 2350kv or 2633kv or any other 220x motor of your choice

little bee escs (or other f390 esc)

powerosd pro or RROSD Pro (no pins)

Aomway 200mw vtx

or hawkeye 200mw vtx or other Tiny vtx with about a 7cm right angle pigtail soldered on

HS1177 fpv cam

FrSky Xsr (not much room for anything else, I direct soldered mine) 

I am running a slightly earlier version of this frame. It is a super compact build, but everything fits as long as you use the recommended build. I used a RROSD and would not attempt this without it if you want an osd in the build (Power OSD would work too). If you are nervous about getting everything crammed in I suggest going the route of the 16mm height instead of the 13mm. Mine is 13mm and it is very tight. 

 If you do build the frame please feel free to email me with any questions (and pics) at krwineinger@gmail.com

This frame is a new design that was build up around the battery placement, since it is the single heaviest object on a quad. The frame was designed around a standard 1300mah 4s battery, and keeps it as close to the center of the quad as possible to keep the moments of inertia (how easy it is to spin the quad) as low as possible. This and the symmetric X shape with minimal body, make this an extremely responsive quad. I also kept the weight of the frame down as much as possible using vertical plates and slots to keep the hardware count down, keeping the frame weighing in at about 92g for the 6in version.

This kit is supports up to 6in props, and meant to be used with batteries less than 40mm wide by less than 85 mm long (most 1300mah 4s batteries will work and you can put larger batteries on the bottom but it is not suggested).. Some filing will be necessary to get the slots all fitting together as I wanted to keep the tolerances as tight as possible since the slots are critical to this frame (I used my wife’s nail file, but any small finishing files will work but they need to be thinner than 1.5mm). Also note that there is only 16mm of vertical height to build FC, Pdb stack so this is not really a beginner build, and pretty much everything will have to be direct soldered. It has the standard 30.5mm holes for FC stack, and has 16x19mm bolt pattern support for 220x motors (may have to drill out for 1806 motors). Also supports up to 55 degrees of camera tilt with a hs1177. Recommended build:

Naze32 or F3 or KISS FC

RCX2205 2350kv or 2633kv or any other 220x motor of your choice

little bee escs (or other f390 esc)

powerosd pro or RROSD Pro (no pins)

Aomway 200mw vtx

or hawkeye 200mw vtx or other Tiny vtx with about a 7cm right angle pigtail soldered on

HS1177 fpv cam

FrSky Xsr (not much room for anything else, I direct soldered mine) 

I am running a slightly earlier version of this frame. It is a super compact build, but everything fits as long as you use the recommended build. I used a RROSD and would not attempt this without it if you want an osd in the build (Power OSD would work too). If you are nervous about getting everything crammed in I suggest going the route of the 16mm height instead of the 13mm. Mine is 13mm and it is very tight. 

 If you do build the frame please feel free to email me with any questions (and pics) at krwineinger@gmail.com

This frame is a new design that was build up around the battery placement, since it is the single heaviest object on a quad. The frame was designed around a standard 1300mah 4s battery, and keeps it as close to the center of the quad as possible to keep the moments of inertia (how easy it is to spin the quad) as low as possible. This and the symmetric X shape with minimal body, make this an extremely responsive quad. I also kept the weight of the frame down as much as possible using vertical plates and slots to keep the hardware count down, keeping the frame weighing in at about 87g for the 5in version.

This kit is supports up to 5in props (220mm motor to motor), and meant to be used with batteries less than 40mm wide by less than 85 mm long (most 1300mah 4s batteries will work and you can put larger batteries on the bottom but it is not suggested).. Some filing will be necessary to get the slots all fitting together as I wanted to keep the tolerances as tight as possible since the slots are critical to this frame (I used my wife’s nail file, but any small finishing files will work but they need to be thinner than 1.5mm). Also note that there is only 16mm of vertical height to build FC, Pdb stack so this is not really a beginner build, and pretty much everything will have to be direct soldered. It has the standard 30.5mm holes for FC stack, and has 16x19mm bolt pattern support for 220x motors (may have to drill out for 1806 motors). Also supports up to 55 degrees of camera tilt with a hs1177. Recommended build:

Naze32 or F3 or KISS FC

RCX2205 2350kv or 2633kv or any other 220x motor of your choice

little bee escs (or other f390 esc)

powerosd pro or RROSD Pro (no pins)

Aomway 200mw vtx

or hawkeye 200mw vtx or other Tiny vtx with about a 7cm right angle pigtail soldered on

HS1177 fpv cam

FrSky Xsr (not much room for anything else, I direct soldered mine) 

I am running a slightly earlier version of this frame. It is a super compact build, but everything fits as long as you use the recommended build. I used a RROSD and would not attempt this without it if you want an osd in the build (Power OSD would work too). If you are nervous about getting everything crammed in I suggest going the route of the 16mm height instead of the 13mm. Mine is 13mm and it is very tight. 

 If you do build the frame please feel free to email me with any questions (and pics) at krwineinger@gmail.com

*Pictures are of 6in version only difference is the arm length.