ZSplit Mini Kit

Specs

• Stretched X shape with 120mm base (motor shaft to motor shaft).

• Camera mounting holes specifically made for micro cameras dimensions such as the RunCam Split Mini or RunCam Micro Sparrow.

• Mounting holes for 9/9mm motors. Should fit all 11xx motors.

• Top and bottom plate thickness: 3mm

• Front plates thickness: 2mm

• Weight (h/w included): ~25g

Notes

3D Models

Here are some freely downloadable & 3D-printable models for your frame:

• Battery spacer: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2911756?

Images

Suggested components for this build

The following are just link to manufacturers' websites, you are encouraged to find the best deals in your favorite shop.

• 110x motors (possibly with long wires): Emax RS1106 or Eachine 1104

• 20x20mm tower stack with 4in1 ESCs: HGLRC XJB F440

• Camera: RunCam Split Mini

• VTX: Eachine VTX03

• Battery: Turnigy Nano-Tech 3S 450mAh 65C

• TX and RX: FrSky Taranis QX 7 and FrSky R-XSR (or FrSky XM+)

• 2" props: Gemfan Hulkie 2040 (2x4x3)

• LEDs (optional): Armattan Universal LED tail light

Tips for assembling the frame

You should start from the bottom plate: screw the motors in and route their cables. Cut & solder the motors' cables.

Repeat for the top plate but be sure to leave generous slack for the wires: this way you'll be able to do maintenance of your electronics by unscrewing the top plate and lifting it, placing it vertically behind the back plate in a sort of an L shape. The top plate will behave like a bonnet and let you work freely while it holds the rest of the frame straight.

You have two options to route the upper motors' cables, depending on the direction your props are spinning: for normal rotation it is suggested to bend them on the outside of the arm, and for inverted rotation it is safer to bend them on the inside. The cables will then head to the FC by sticking to the bottom side of the top plate, safe from any bent prop strike.